Mount Thompson - July 12, 2003

Le Mont Thompson.

I succumbed to beta-fever and briefly skimmed some web trip reports for Thompson. "Shortcuts" is what stuck in my mind. People taking shortcuts to avoid the monotonous PCT. I looked on the map. "There's a shortcut!", I thought. 800 feet straight up a forest ridge would circumvent 3 miles of trail. That must be it.

Vincent and I took the shortcut - nice steep forest floor, fairly easy going except it was slippery. Then the forest disappeared and we ended up on some 3rd class rock. Then some route-finding difficulties. Had to climb down around a cliff. Were we really where we thought we were? Vincent's altimeter was giving reading that didn't really correspond to the map. Oh well, up we go...

Finally it levelled off, and a while later, we hit the PCT as it crosses the ridge-top. Not sure we saved any time, but it was more fun than the dreary trail.

Snack time just before the catwalk. Doesn't the rocky ridge look sweet? It runs like this for a long ways on each side the trail. Too bad its mostly covered in bushes.

Across the west side of Kendall, over the Catwalk (my first time!), by some lakes, up to Bumblebee pass (which lives up to its name). Down some mud, across a little snow, up some talus, where we talked about the Vancouver Olympics, and the effect it will have on the Whistler/Squamish area.

We headed to the notch one left of the base of the West Ridge, then made some 4th class moves on the ridge crest to the base of the WR.

Vincent on the first pitch.

Vincent led the first pitch, which starts with the most difficult move of the whole climb, with much exposure. 2 pitches of fun/mellow juggy climbing brought us close to a flat feature of the ridge, and we simul-climbed across that and up to the summit (2 hours on route).

We had forgotten a nut-tool, Vincent was unable to remove one of my chocks from my lead. He kept trying, but dark clouds with rain were visible off in the distance, so I encouraged him to give up and come on up.

The glory shot.

Vincent descending from the summit.

After a short break on the summit, we packed away the rope and descended the scramble route (two short 4th class sections), trying to stay ahead of any rain. The scree on the descent really sucked. We both found it harder than anything on the climb. Everything was moving. It was muddy. Sketchy.

Ex-scree-mely tedious.

Aww, what a purdy rainbow!

Clouds, rain, sun = nice light.

We made it down to the basin just as the rain started. The rain was actually really refreshing, and we were treated to a great rainbow as we regained Bumblebee Pass (the bees had now gone into hiding). Occasionally a dark cloud covered the summit of Thompson. Well-timed.

Vincent walks within feet of a hundred foot plunge, on the dreaded and fearful Kendall Catwalk!

We took the trail all the way out... our "shortcut" would not be a good descent route for weary climbers. Shortly before the trailhead, the rain came back, in force. However, the heavy forest canopy kept us dry... until that is, the parking lot. I located my truck keys in my pack at the last protected spot. Then we raced across the pavement to the truck, but I had parked too far from the trailhead - we were soaked! It was a downpour!